Back from the Grave: Sega Game Gear (dull screen)

The Sega Game Gear.  Released in 1990 to compete with Nintendo's Game Boy, on paper it was a no-contest winner: colour graphics on a backlit display, a more common-place processor, twice the VRAM, compatibility (via an accessory) with the entire existing library of Master System titles (including an adaptor for 2-player games), and even an analogue TV tuner accessory made it seem all but certain Nintendo would have to react or fall by the wayside.

Sadly, something went wrong for Sega.  Nintendo didn't add colour (or a backlight in the global market) until 1998, by which time the Game Gear had already been dead for a year.  While the Game Gear had comparatively short battery life (especially considering it took more batteries) and some questionable titles, it was ultimately Sega's lack of focus on the mobile market which sealed its fate.

This particular Game Gear has belonged to my brother since the mid-90s.  It was bought second hand but in working order, however it was eventually retired when the screen dulled.  While it was still functional, and usable when viewed from an appropriately awkward angle, it was replaced with a unit which will feature in a future BftG.

As it turns out, this is not an uncommon issue.  Many Game Gears have suffered a similar fate, and almost all of them for the same reason.  Reportedly Sega (and possibly some others) had used either inferior, faulty or misrepresented capacitors when making the Game Gear - two of which are directly responsible for controlling the brightness of the display.  Given that all the capacitors were of the same age, most from the same supplier and all had been used about the same amount, we decided to simply replace them all (there are pre-made kits available for this if you don't feel like getting them together yourself, but they're all polarised electrolytic so it isn't hard).

Removal of the old capacitors is only affected by the shrouds on the faux-surface-mount units on the main board.  These are standard electrolytics enclosed in plastic shrouds that are tacked down to keep them in place.  However, after 20 or more years (and likely because the adhesive was never that strong to begin with) these can easily be removed with a very slight twist from a pair of pliers, and no damage is likely to occur.

It is worth mentioning at this point that there may be a reason the capacitors have such a high rate of failure: if nothing else, the original capacitors are extremely small for their rating, meaning they may well have been over-rated for their voltage.  Combine that with the shroud limiting thermal expansion and a shortened life expectancy isn't that unusual.

Because of their physical size, however, you may need to make accommodations for their replacements - such as remote mounting on a length of wire with some double-sided tape.  Care must also be taken to allow the unit itself to be re-assembled, as supports are present behind the buttons and D-pad which really shouldn't be removed or modified, so be prepared to reconsider where you're sticking things.

And that ends this BftG.  Following the replacement of the capacitors, the job is done.  The screen should now be as bright as you remember it being, and the more modern and appropriate capacitors you used for the job should easily last much longer than the old ones.  This process can also restore sound to some systems (this will also feature in a future BftG).  It does not, however, correct horizontal black lines, nor will it affect differing contrast on the three vertical thirds.  These two problems, and another one which can cause a dark screen, are related to different parts (which will hopefully also feature in a future BftG).

Remember that electricity can be dangerous to both property and life.  If you don't respect it you can wind up seriously hurting or even killing yourself or others, and chances are it's going to be painful while it's happening.  Unless you're sure of what you're doing, avoid tampering with any electrical circuit - especially when it's live or mains powered - and always ensure you have a nearby assistant who can contact emergency services.